Friday, June 7, 2024

Gettysburg

I've never been particularly interested in the American Civil War. Right time period, wrong country. I'm really not interested in military campaigns or strategies at all. 

But when I had a day off between races in Delaware, Maryland, and New Jersey, it seemed like a good opportunity to at least visit the battlefield and, more importantly -- for me anyway -- the Gettysburg Cyclorama. 

After finishing the Maryland race, I got in the car and drove west. Of course my first stop was the museum and visitor center. 


I bought a ticket to the film, museum, and CYCLORAMA and spent a couple of hours enjoying them. The film was excellent -- a great overview of the battle. The museum was interesting, even to me -- though by the end I was a little bored of all the details. (Shame!)

And then... CYCLORAMA. 

I have been fascinated by the idea of the Gettysburg Cyclorama for years -- I love 19th-century entertainments and the fact that this massive painting still exists astounds me. Cycloramas were 360-degree circular paintings on a massive scale, displayed with lights and sound effects and elements in the foreground to make them more 3-dimensional and immerse the viewer in the scene being depicted. Think 19th-century IMAX in 3D. 

French artist Paul Dominque Philiippoteaux painted the original in 1882-83. It was such a success that copies were made; this version was painted for a Boston exhibition, nearly lost to time, and restored in 2005. At 42 feet high by 377 feet in circumference, it depicts Pickett's Charge, the failed infantry assault that was the climax of the Battle of Gettysburg.  

Phillippoteaux painted himself into the picture -- he's the soldier leaning against a tree at the far right of the painting

The only downside is that you are allowed into the space in small groups, and escorted out after 15 minutes. There was very little commentary -- I thought it would be a "show" but it wasn't. It was impossible to really see all of it. But it was still SPECTACULAR. 


note the fence built in the foreground





I found a great "cheat sheet" from a 19th-century exhibit program that would have been really useful to have while I was in the room!


After spending time at the Visitor Center I picked up a map and headed out to the battlefield. I had considered joining a tour, but realized I just didn't have the interest. So I drove myself around, stopping at various points, listening to the NPS videos for each of the tour stops, and stretching my legs. 





But it was haaaaawwwwwt, and I knew that my hotel had a pool and, well, I was just done. 


I had a nice swim and then went for a walk into town. I stopped at a cidery for a tasting flight and was repeatedly bemused by the historical walking tours that kept passing by. I rather regretted not joining one, but wasn't sure I really cared enough. 



The next morning I would enjoy a nice breakfast at the hotel, and then drive back east toward New Jersey. I dawdled along, stopping at quilt stores and pootling through Amish country (lovely!). 

Next up: New Jersey

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