Mount Baker to Downtown
Last week's rain-shortened trek meant this week's walk was on the long side...
That said, a good chunk of the miles is just the long, straight stretch from Madison Valley up to First Hill... somehow the stairless stretches pass by quickly.
We drove to Mt. Baker, where we left off the last stretch. We *could* have taken the bus, but the 70-minute ride put us off a little.
We started with a visit to the Mt. Baker Ridge Viewpoint, a tiny parklet with a sundial structure and slots in basalt columns that align with the sunset at the Equinox and Solstice.
That said, a good chunk of the miles is just the long, straight stretch from Madison Valley up to First Hill... somehow the stairless stretches pass by quickly.
We drove to Mt. Baker, where we left off the last stretch. We *could* have taken the bus, but the 70-minute ride put us off a little.
We started with a visit to the Mt. Baker Ridge Viewpoint, a tiny parklet with a sundial structure and slots in basalt columns that align with the sunset at the Equinox and Solstice.
Mt. Baker Ridge Viewpoint |
But we couldn't wait for the Solstice to roll around ... we had stairs to walk!
starting point for this stretch |
grooved pavement ... just to get you on your way |
Day Stairway West, 147 stairs |
We crossed a street and continued down the second stretch of stairs; these ones felt "newer" because they were in flights broken up by landings...
Day Stairway West, lower section |
And then down these amazing, "Metropolis"-feeling stairs to enter Sam Smith Park... the park that sits right on top of I-90.
At the foot of the stairs we were close to the I-90 pedestrian / bike path tunnel entrance. I still have a weird soft spot for brutal poured concrete... One almost expects flames to burst out of the tunnel. But it's mainly just spandex-clad cyclists and the occasional pedestrian.
We poked around the park a little bit, admiring the "Philosophical Promenade", a public artwork created in the late 1980s by Keith Beckley and Dennis Evans described as:
a visual poem that allegorically depicts everyone's journey from "dawn" to "twilight." The artwork is composed of two identical sets of 12 conceptual "gateways," or sections that are approximately 50 feet apart along a pathway. Each "gateway" is thematically titled in inlaid bronze with an adjacent bronze plaque depicting a symbolic representation of a different stage of the journey - a figure walking up a river with wind blowing on him, pushing a wheel up a mountain, crawling across a sword which spans a chasm, holding a walking stick and lantern and walking a path between two poles. Adjacent to each plaque is a rock set in a rectangle surrounded by inlaid bronze lettering with a philosophical statement, meant to give a clue or trigger for understanding and interpreting the plaque's image. As you move down the pathway, the story of the journey unfolds. - Seattle Office of Arts and Culture
Here's a closeup of one of the rocks:
We left the park and headed partway up the ridge to 30th ... up a steep "grooved pavement". Seriously, why not put stairs in??? Though I suppose if you lived on the ridge you could ride your bike down this bone-jolting stretch and then join the I-90 bike tunnel...
groovy! |
As we headed north on 30th, we popped out on a block with a great view toward Bellevue. Some of the residents of the lower side of the street have built little platforms at the edges of their property next to the street, complete with stairs leading up to them. Why? This view...
Dearborn Stairway, 154 stairs |
See stairs? Climb stairs. |
We popped out on S. King Street and admired the view from the curved terrace.
Seattle's Olmsted Legacy -- it's kind of a big deal. Keeping in mind that Seattle was founded in 1851, it's pretty amazing that the city decided to develop a parks system... and hired the Olmsted Brothers to design a series of parks... 52 years later. The 1903 plan detailed a series of parks and boulevards to create an "emerald necklace" for the city. It wasn't all developed, but a remarkable number of parks were.
One of the best parts of the Olmsted plan was that each park was meant to be unique, and to reflect the area around it. In is 1903 report John Charles Olmsted wrote:
"The different parks of the city should not be made to look as much like each other as possible, but on the contrary every advantage should be taken of differing conditions to give each one a distinct individuality of its own."
Because Capitol Hill already featured a "highly finished style of city development", Volunteer Park featured a formal design with flower beds and an observation tower. But 17-acre Frink Park, which was still a wild forest, was left mostly pristine, with roads following the counter of the landscape.
Olmsted's initial plan for Frink Park, from OlmstedOnline |
The route we took doesn't seem to appear on the original plan, since we started between Jackson and King streets down a dirt path with some stairs inset into it. We did pop back out at the edge of the park on the corner of 32nd and King, and joined the stairs so visible on the plan above (even if they didn't really look like that...)
And on down to the lake ... almost. We headed a block north on Lakeside, then turned up the Jackson Stairway, which was handsomely rebuilt in 2011.
entering the Jackson Stairway, 135 steps |
heading up the Jackson Stairway |
We finally found ourselves at the corner of E. Alder and Erie Avenue -- where our walk was supposed to end last week. Seeing how long it had taken us to get here, we made a very good call to cut it short then!
Some more wandering through a swanky neighborhood filled with a weird mix of architectural styles, and we arrived at the Randolph Stairway, connecting Wellington and Randolph. Yes it's a nice stairway... but does anyone actually use it other than runners?
Randolph Stairway |
a pedestrian stretch of E. James Street |
James Stairway, lower stretch, 106 stairs |
The path through the park was pretty -- lots of wooden stairs -- but we suddenly met quite a lot of people out walking their large dogs, so we pretty much just kept moving along.
Then on to the 38th Avenue Stairway, which runs from Newport Way up to E. Spring Street on 136 stairs. It's great that we have nice new, well maintained stairs ... but they're not very interesting, are they?
38th Ave Stairway, 136 steps |
nature always wins, eventually... |
37th Avenue East Stairway, 101 stairs |
Some more neighborhood meandering, and noticing how quickly areas can go from fancy to "just about to gentrify" in a block or two.
The Thomas Stairway took us up up up to Madison, with a little zigzag to complete the final stage on the other side.
Thomas Street Stairway, 114 steps |
A little shift over to University Street and then we arrived here:
I hadn't been in Freeway Park in.... well, probably two or three decades. (Other than the very edge of it, just outside the convention center.) The park was opened on July 4, 1976 and has been recognized by the Cultural Landscape Foundation as the first park built over a freeway. (Yes, there are others. Apparently.)
A set of intertwined stairways and wheelchair ramps lead down from 9th and University into the park. I'm pretty sure I have never been in this part before.
Freeway Park stairways |
All in all, as the park descends between 9th and 6th, there are 122 stairs.
I think I can remember being in the car with my beloved Montessori teacher Miss Barb, driving underneath the park as it was being built, and hearing the song "Wildfire" by Michael Martin Murphy, and all of us singing along. Though I have no idea why I would have been in a car with my Montessori teacher...
I can also remember either a school field drip or a Camp Fire Girls outing to visit the park, and playing in and around the fountain.
But I can't remember ever visiting the park after that. Pity -- because it's really lovely. Perhaps if I ever work downtown again (sigh) I will make a point of visiting it.
From Freeway Park we did a little loop up and around the edge of the park so that we could walk down the Convention Center stairway. The Convention Center was built to coordinate with the concrete-and-foliage feel of Freeway Park, so it's a pretty smooth transition.
Washington State Convention Center Stairway, 111 stairs |
Benaroya Hall Stairway, 71 steps |
Harbor Steps, 106 stairs |
Union Stairway, upper half - 141 stairs in all |
An at least 7.55-mile jaunt for this stretch ... but it sets us up for the remaining stages.
One wrinkle -- we didn't want to wait 23 minutes to catch a bus back to the car that would take another 25 minutes to get there. So we called an Uber.
Our driver was ... well, a little nutty. We gave her the address -- the same one I used to navigate to the start -- and set off. We got onto I-5, then I-90 ... and her GPS said not to take the Rainier Avenue South exit. I had mentioned that we'd need to get over asap, but she said, "No, the exit is still half a mile away."
I had one of those existential crises ... WAS there an exit from the tunnel? Had I just never known?
Well, no. Of course there isn't. And we went sailing through the tunnel and onto the bridge... Which means that what happened on the previous stretch -- where our Uber driver was 2 minutes away and then suddenly getting farther and farther ... well, it's that they were being sent the wrong way.
So our short ride became something of a long ride, and in the end I had to navigate the driver back to where our car was... and our $8 ride became a $23 ride. Oh, Uber.
But next time we just need to get ourselves to the waterfront downtown, and go from there ... and end up in the University District. Easy peasy! (Well, if the weather will cooperate, that is...)
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